out and about: mount desert island.

August 19, 2015

mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves
We spent the first half of our trip to Maine exploring Mount Desert Island. There’s so much that’s lovely to see on the island that you hardly need a guide, but we made it back a few favorite spots we’d visited before and discovered a few new ones that I thought would be nice to share in this place. Special shoutout to my favorite internet friend and neighbor, Emily, for her amazing insider tips.

silvercar As I mentioned before, we drove up to Maine for this trip. Having a car with us was really convenient for being able to visit some of the more remote spots on the island and after a few minor carseat-related meltdowns on the way up, Faye found her groove and settled in.

For this trip, I partnered with Silvercar for what was the most seamless and utterly luxurious car rental experience of my life. While it was a little funny to cruise around in a fancypants car while camping, I wouldn’t have changed the experience for anything. The rental process itself was super easy—no long lines, no last-minute car swaps, no paperwork, no arriving to a lot to be told that all of the cars are gone. The silver Audi sedan (the only kind of car the company rents) came equipped with wi-fi which proved terrific for keeping all of you guys bombarded by instagrams and satellite radio meant that we had good tunes even when we were in more remote parts of Maine and out of range for cell service. My only fear is that we’ve finally spoiled Faye for good.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves We kept a picnic basket in the trunk of the car and used it as homebase while we were out and about. Many a peanut butter and jelly sandwich was made out of the trunk.

For folks who prefer a more athletic approach to sightseeing, the island is definitely bikeable (if quite hilly in spots) and there are bike rental places in almost every small village on the island, complete with trailers and baby seats so that the whole family can join in on the fun. If you head to the National Park, you can also hop on shuttle buses for a guided tour.

You don’t have to visit the national park to get a sense of the natural beauty of Mount Desert Island, but it will certainly enrich the experience. A park pass is $25/pass for a private vehicle and good for a week. You can buy them at a bunch of different places on the island (if you’re camping in the park, you need to buy this weekly pass in addition to paying your nightly $22 camping fee). Here are a few of our favorite spots in the park:
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Wonderland – Head here at sunset. There’s lots to be said for enjoying the sunset from a westerly facing point like the Bass Harbor sunsets in Maine, but in this spot between Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor, the sky turns pink. If you make it there at low tide the tide pools are gorgeous. Bonus if it’s low tide at sunset and the whole place is glowing.

Bass Harbor Lighthouse – Mount Desert’s only lighthouse is worth taking a peek at. The short hiking trails around the lighthouse are lovely with lots of pink granite outcroppings for watching boats pass. The trails are especially beautiful in the early morning. And if I could bottle up a smell to keep forever, it’d be the scent of these woods.

Echo Lake – A fresh water lake in the middle of the island and a perfect spot for a lazy afternoon. We took it easy on our day there this time around, but I have vivid memories of hiking on the trails around the lake as a child and looking down on the water from above. It’s a nice spot to cool down without freezing to death in the ocean.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Sand Beach – Maybe the coldest ocean water I’ve experienced. This aptly named beach is one of the only sandy beaches along an otherwise very rocky coastline. Faye could not get enough of the icy water (or the seaweed).

Seawall Picnic Area – I might have this name wrong, but on the drive to Seawall Campground where we stayed, there’s a gorgeous natural seawall with drop-dead views at dusk. We loved this place, especially because it was easy to get to in the sliver of time we had between cleaning up camp dinners and sundown.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Park Loop Road – A meandering 27-mile road goes through the park and along breathtaking vistas with scenic overlooks a plenty. If you head to Acadia in the summertime you will not be alone on the road, but I don’t think that diminishes the beauty too much. Don’t be dismayed if parking near some of the most touristy spots are full. You can park along the road and the walk along the cliffs is not something to be grumbly about. If you’re carless—or would rather not drive—you can also take park shuttles along this route.

We tooled around Bar Harbor a bit and ducked in and out of the other villages, but here are a few of our favorite stops that were slightly more off the beaten path:
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves
Beech Hill Farm  The most beautiful farm stand operated by students at the College of the Atlantic. A terrific spot to get veggies for making dinner or for finding wonderful Maine-made products to bring back to the folks at home.

Long Pond – Half in the park, half out, you can visit Long Pond without a park pass if you want to. If we hadn’t had a tiny one with us, we would have rented a canoe to cruise around the lake. The pond is glorious and you didn’t hear it here, but there’s a rock jumping cliff there, too.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Blueberry Picking – On the way to Long Pond, there’s a pick-your-own wild blueberry spot. $3 for a quart we didn’t have the time to fill was worth every penny and made us feel better about the few berries we ate straight off the bush.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Sargent Drive – Last time James and I were in Acadia we hiked along the hills that flank Somes Sound, but this time we took a slightly less intense approach and took a drive down the beautiful Sargent Drive one foggy morning.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Thuya Gardens – An easy stop off of Sargent Drive, these gardens are gorgeous. We headed there the day after our third wedding anniversary and met people celebrating 52, 48, and 49 years of marriage. A good omen if ever there was one. It was overcast and lovely during our visit. $5 recommended donation.

Cooksey Drive Overlook – This short hike was a fantastic out-of-the-park spot to take in terrific views away from the Park Loop crowds. Locate Cooksey Drive on the map in Seal Harbor and wind your way through streets lined with incredible “cottages” until you see a few parking spots and a sign marking the spot. The trails here are maintained by Maine Coast Heritage Trust and just stunning.

We ate most of our meals at the campsite (or out of our cooler), but we enjoyed a few treats out and about, too. These are some favorites:
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Claremont Inn Dock – The dock at this historic hotel is out of the way in a best way and a wonderful treat. We enjoyed delicious blueberry margaritas while Faye enjoyed death-defying acrobatics on the dock. Baby hazards aside, it is worth your while to wend your way down to the old hotel and down to the dock to drink up the view (and the cocktails). Southwest Harbor.
mount desert island, maine | reading my tea leaves Maine-ly Delights – Classic, not-at-all fancy New England seafood joint with a very kind waitstaff. The fried haddock sandwiches were the best thing here. Would be a great spot to hit for lunch, but we cruised there after getting rained out at dinnertime at camp. The sun was setting right across the street as we ate and a stroll down to the floating dock was the perfect finish to the night. Bass Harbor.

Gott’s Store – Extremely typique in the best way. The ice cream here is terrific. Overlook the styrofoam bowls (or bring your own!) and get a hot fudge sundae with peanut butter or a blueberry float. This felt like my childhood summers come back to life. Route 102 en route to Bass Harbor.

Little Notch Bakery – A nice little spot to stock up on blueberry scones and sandwich bread (and iced coffee). Southwest Harbor.

If you need to pick up provisions while you’re on the island, we had luck at these places:

A&B Naturals: A tiny natural foods store in Bar Harbor and a good spot to pick up milk or yogurt or other perishables. It’s also across the street from a larger conventional grocery store if you need more variety. Bar Harbor.

Sawyer’s Market – This market and accompanying wine shop are nice places to duck into if you’re camping at Seawall. Be prepared for a bit of sticker shock, but know there’s a place to buy everything from local produce to fancy prepared sauces and cheese just down the road from camp. Southwest Harbor.

The drive up to Acadia is a bit of a haul from New York—and most other places. We had grand plans to make the journey in one day (hahahaha), but at the last minute we broke up the trip with a stopover at my parents’ house in Connecticut and another one at a beautiful campground in Phippsburg on the way up. In case you need fortification or distraction on the journey, here are some good spots to stretch (and snack):


Chase’s Daily – This restaurant/farm market in Belfast is amazing, beautiful, and delicious. We got insanely yummy tofu bahn mi sandwiches on our way back down the coast from Acadia. Belfast.

Belfast Co-op – We stocked up on a few essentials before making our way to Acadia. Terrific and big natural food coop. My kind of place and then some. Belfast.

Atlantic Baking Co. – If you’re traveling up with a tiny person who needs to make frequent stops (or even if you’re not), stop at the Atlantic Baking Company in Rockland for fresh breads, frothy cappucinos and great soups and sandwiches to stay or go. Rockland.

Farnsworth Art Museum – A really lovely art museum in downtown Rockland is worth a visit if you’re sick of the car or killing time before catching a ferry in Rockland. Faye particularly enjoyed hearing her echo on our tour but no one seemed to mind her enthusiasm. Rockland; $12/person

Baby-related Note: It probably goes without saying that vacationing with a baby is different than vacationing without a baby. I’ve never been a traveler who really enjoys checking sites off a list like I’m engaging in some kind of competative sport, but I do really enjoy exploring. The pace of vacation with a baby was definitely more…relaxed…than we anticpated. We didn’t cover less ground, necessarily, but we definitely covered it differently. There were fewer cliffside hikes and more scenic drives. Fewer candlelit dinners and more bedtime stories. I was peed on twice in the same day. If I’m being honest, there were moments when our trip felt like a string of scenic overlook stops punctuated by epic diaper changes. But blueberry-scented blowouts aside (did I just cross a line there?), we still managed to see tons, to give ourselves the chance to recharge, and still feel like the effort of vacationing was totally, one-hundred percent worth it.


To read more about our camping experience, head HERE.

Disclosure: Silvercar offered us a generous discount on our car rental for this trip. Enthusiastic review and opinions my own.

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  • Reply Nancy Cavillones August 19, 2015 at 4:04 pm

    I am filing this away for next summer. Just sent my husband a link. We'll see how this goes with three kids. 🙂

  • Reply Jenny August 19, 2015 at 4:12 pm

    Faye's hoodie is adorable, the one with the red & white stripes on the inside. I perused your post but didn't see a mention of where it was from? This post was well worth the wait!

    • Reply admin August 19, 2015 at 4:18 pm

      Her hoodie was a gift from her grammy! Not sure where it's from!

  • Reply tea_austen August 19, 2015 at 5:01 pm

    I have a Maine trip on the agenda for next June, so I am taking notes! Acadia and Monhegan are on the list, of course 🙂
    That picture of Faye and the rope busted open my heart this morning. What an imp! How sweet.
    Thanks for sharing! xo

    • Reply admin August 19, 2015 at 5:03 pm

      Aw, thanks Tara! I try to be discriminating about posting too many photos of Faye's face, but that one was just too cute. So happy to be biting on a smelly fishing rope!

  • Reply Vanessa August 19, 2015 at 5:15 pm

    Oh gorgeous. My partner's sister named her daughter Acadia, claiming it as her second favorite national park (Glacier admittedly does not work as well as someone's first name). I'd love to visit, although I doubt we'd end up schlepping all our camping gear from Colorado. Filing this away for future vacation ideas!

  • Reply Alie August 19, 2015 at 5:19 pm

    Looks lovely. My mom is from Maine and I've been to Bar Harbor many times, but didn't know about some of these spots! Thanks for sharing the beauty; I'm going to bookmark this for next time!

  • Reply Alexa August 19, 2015 at 6:13 pm

    Your girl has the brightest eyes! She is lovely.

    And you're making me want to pack a bag and get out of dodge 🙂

  • Reply Rachel Quednau August 19, 2015 at 9:53 pm

    These photos are incredible and definitely make me want to travel to Maine. That picture of you and Faye picking blueberries is one for the books. Thanks for sharing all about your adventures.

  • Reply Callie August 20, 2015 at 12:17 am

    We are headed up there in a few weeks-with a 2.5 yo- so this post was perfect! And blueberry poops are indeed distinct and worth mentioning

  • Reply Anonymous August 20, 2015 at 2:34 pm

    Loving your Maine posts. Hoping to get to Acadia this fall sometime.

    Re: blueberries, my girls both love eating frozen wild blueberries, especially while teething, but we now (affectionately) call them Poo-Berries for a good reason 🙂

  • Reply Robyn August 20, 2015 at 3:12 pm

    Beautiful pictures! A trip to Maine is on the top of my list. I love your sunglasses. Where did you buy them if I may ask?

  • Reply Kate August 21, 2015 at 8:31 pm

    What a lovely looking trip! I have spent so many summer in southern Maine, but never made it farther north than Portland. Acadia is certainly being bumped up on the list of "places we must visit." Thanks for sharing such sweet family photos!

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